Visiting Ethiopia? Learn the proper etiquettes: Part I
You probably consider yourself a polite person until suddenly you are amongst strangers in a new culture where some or most of what you say and do seems to upset someone. Here are a few things you should consider to make your stay in Ethiopia more pleasant.
Greetings
It is considered polite to lightly touch your right elbow with your left hand while shaking the other person's hand. If the other person is significantly older than you bow slightly at the same time. In case you're meeting more than one person, always start greetings with the oldest one.
On the street
If u meet someone you know on the streets, it's only polite to stop and greet them properly. Family is the most important relationship in Ethiopia so ask about their family. This may take up to 5 minutes. And don't be confused if people ask you repeatedly how you are doing, that's just Ethiopian culure.
Dining
We Ethiopians are very fond of injera and eat it almost daily. Injera is eaten with fingers so wash your hands before. Sure you can ask for a fork or some other cutlery, but you can count on somebody laughing at you or making a comment. Always use your right hand for eating (btw this rule also applies for lefties). In communal eating, which is very popular, you eat what's infront of you. Only when your side of the plate is empty, that you reach further. Keep your mouth closed and don't make noise when you chew. Others will most likely take offence. No matter how good the wot (stew) is, do not stick your fingers in your mouth and lick. At least not in public.
Gursha (someone else feeds you with their fingers) is a sign of hospitality and respect and it's only polite to gratefully accept it. I personally don't like gursha so I try to politely decline the offer. This doesn't always work though.
Eating on the move is very uncommon. This is nowadays changing in Addis. Sharing food is very traditional and people often say 'enibla' which is an invitation for another person/s to join them.
Coffee
Yes, coffee was first discovered in Keffa, Ethiopia. So don't offend us by saying that this is news to you. We also grow some of the best quality beans in the world. Coffee ceremony often includes the roasting of beans on a charcoal oven and burning of incence. If the incence makes it difficult to breathe, appologize and leave the room for a while. Or ask if it's possible to open the door or window. The roasting of the coffee beans also produces an aromatic smoke which guests are often offered to inhale.
Coffee almost always follows a meal. We are not big on desserts, so with coffee we offer popcorns, peanuts, 'kolo', sesame halva, or freshly home made bread. Cookies have also become popular lately. Don't worry that the 'sini' or coffee cup is too small, you'll be offered a second and third round. Coffee may be taken with sugar, salt, or even clarified butter in some regions.
